Notes from the counter.
Short notes on why the room works the way it does. Written by the kitchen, every month or two.
New Year's at the counter
Our first December 31: two seatings on the book as usual, then a late counter that is not.
2026-09-30 · 2 min
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What the late seating is for
The 21:30 seating is the same seven courses, a little quieter, and often full of cooks.
2026-08-27 · 2 min
Notes on the tea pairing
Five pours for guests who do not drink, built course by course, the same way as the wine.
2026-07-08 · 2 min
The trout arrives whole
One fish, two courses. The roe opens the menu and the fillet comes fourth.
2026-06-11 · 3 min
The hearth takes three hours
Oak for heat, cherry for smoke, and a fire that is lit at two for a dinner at half past five.
2026-05-19 · 3 min
Why twelve
The counter could have seated sixteen. We took four stools out on the second night.
2026-04-02 · 2 minBy season.
Autumn 2026
New Year's at the counter · 2026-09-30
Spring 2026
The trout arrives whole · 2026-06-11
The hearth takes three hours · 2026-05-19
Why twelve · 2026-04-02