The late seating was meant to be a convenience. It became the room's favorite. The candles have burned down by a third, the street outside is empty, and the kitchen has cooked the menu twice already, so it cooks it best.
Most weeks, half the late counter works in restaurants: cooks off at nine, servers from Main Street, a sommelier who drives in from the North Fork. They eat quickly and talk to the line.
There is no late seating on Sundays. Everyone, including us, has work in the morning.