The house
A watchmaker, a rotisserie, and one family between them.
Paul and Marian Merrow opened Turnspit in Huntington in 1994 with one rotisserie and eleven tables. Their daughter Ada grew up at the pass, left at nineteen, and cooked for eleven years in other people's kitchens. She came home in 2025. Sable Room opened the next spring in the old watchmaker's shop on Tallow Lane, and Seventeen Jewels took the shop's front room that autumn.
The building is older than any of it. This is the order things happened in, from the first clock on the wall to the three rooms that are open tonight.

The years
1926 to now, in nine entries.
Dates, rooms and people. Nothing here is larger than it was.
1926
Tallow Lane
A watchmaker on Tallow Lane
Elias Hartwell opens a watch and clock repair shop at 14 Tallow Lane, Huntington. Three generations of Hartwells work at the same bench.

The bench at 14 Tallow Lane, some time in the 1930s. 1994
Turnspit
Turnspit opens
Paul and Marian Merrow open Turnspit on Gristmill Row with one wood-fired rotisserie, eleven tables and a chalkboard. Half a chicken, potatoes from the drip tray, bread from the hearth.
Turnspit today →
Gristmill Row, 1994. The first rotisserie, with the potatoes under it. 2006
Turnspit
A second rotisserie, in Northport
The Northport room opens a block from the harbor. Sunday supper for the table starts here and spreads to the other rooms.
Turnspit today →2012
Turnspit
The catering van
A customer asks for forty chickens for a wedding. Turnspit says yes, buys a van, and has catered every weekend since.
Turnspit today →2018
Turnspit
Greenport
The third Turnspit opens in a former chandlery by the Greenport ferry, close enough to the North Fork farms that the salad is picked that morning.
Turnspit today →2019
Tallow Lane
The watch shop closes
Hartwell & Sons closes after ninety-three years. The workbench, the regulator clock and the brass shop bell stay in the building.

The bench, the loupe and the shop bell. They stayed. 2025
Tallow Lane
Ada comes home
After eleven years in other kitchens, the last four on a wood-fired line in Manhattan, Ada Merrow takes the lease on 14 Tallow Lane.

The back room in 2025, the week the lease was signed. 2026
Sable Room
Sable Room
Sable Room opens in March in the back of the old shop: one counter cut from a single black walnut, one hearth, one menu a night. It seated sixteen on opening night and twelve from the second.
The room today →
The counter before it was a counter: one black walnut, oiled for the first time. 2026
Seventeen Jewels
Seventeen Jewels
In September the front room opens as a wine bar, cheese counter and bottle shop. It is named for the seventeen jewels in the movement of a good mechanical watch. The regulator clock still keeps the time.
Seventeen Jewels today →
The front room, open since September. The clock is the watchmaker's.
The people
Six names across three rooms.
Some of them you will meet at the counter, the rest next door or on Gristmill Row.
Chef and owner
Ada Merrow
Cooks at Sable Room five nights a week and writes the Turnspit specials on Mondays.
Sable Room · Turnspit · Seventeen Jewels
Founder, Turnspit
Paul Merrow
Built the first rotisserie himself in 1994. Still tastes the gravy every morning.
Turnspit
Founder, Turnspit
Marian Merrow
Ran the floor for twenty-six years. The bread recipe is hers.
Turnspit
Wine, both rooms on Tallow Lane
June Farrell
Writes the Sable Room list and buys every bottle on the shelves at Seventeen Jewels.
Sable Room · Seventeen Jewels
Kitchen lead, Turnspit
Cal Okafor
Runs the three Turnspit kitchens and the catering van.
Turnspit
Cheese and the shop
Wren Hartwell
Great-granddaughter of the watchmaker. Cuts every wedge to order.
Seventeen Jewels
The other two rooms
Lunch on Gristmill Row. A glass next door.
Turnspit is where the family started, and Seventeen Jewels shares our front door. One gift card works in all three rooms.

Turnspit
Chicken off the spit, bread from the hearth, lunch through dinner in three towns.
Huntington, Northport and Greenport, since 1994Visit Turnspit →
Seventeen Jewels
A wine bar, a cheese counter and a shop in the front room of the old watchmaker's.
The front room at 14 Tallow Lane, since SeptemberVisit Seventeen Jewels →Sit at the walnut.
Twelve stools around one hearth, in the back room of the old shop. The book opens sixty days ahead.
Choose your stools