Chablis Vieilles Vignes
Domaine Tessandier, Burgundy, France$36
Tuesday to Sunday

Photographed on the zinc bar, the evening it came in.
Goat · Ash-ripened log
Low Meadow Goat Dairy · Mattituck, North Fork, New York
from $8
In plain wordsFresh and tangy, like a firmer chèvre.
A goat's milk log rolled in vegetable ash. Bright, lactic and clean, with a thin grey line under the rind that tastes faintly of the cellar.
$8 each · By the log
Chablis, Muscadet, green olives.