Tuesday to Sunday
Seventeen Jewels
Booth 4
Tonight's list. Order from whoever is nearest.
Seventeen bottles are open at any time, one for each jewel. A glass is five ounces; sweet and fortified pours are three. Half glasses are half the price plus a dollar.
Sparkling
Slack Tide Brut Nature
Marrow & Finch · North Fork, New York
Green apple, lemon peel, bread crust
Contains: sulfitesV VG GF DF NF
13
Les Rouages Extra Brut
Champagne Lemaire-Aubry · Champagne, France
Red apple, chalk, a little smoke
Contains: sulfitesV VG GF DF NF
21
Lambrusco di Sorbara Secco
Podere Il Bilanciere · Emilia-Romagna, Italy
Dry, pink, wild strawberry, fizzing
Contains: sulfitesV VG GF DF NF
11
White
Shale Dry Riesling
Kettle Point Vineyards · Finger Lakes, New York
Lime, green peach, wet slate
Contains: sulfitesV VG GF DF NF
9
Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie
Domaine de la Pendule · Loire Valley, France
Lemon, sea spray, very light
Contains: sulfites. Fined with a milk proteinV GF DF NF
8
Grüner Veltliner Löss
Weingut Uhrmacher · Kamptal, Austria
White pepper, green pear, crisp
Contains: sulfitesV VG GF DF NF
9
Chablis Vieilles Vignes
Domaine Tessandier · Burgundy, France
Lemon, oyster shell, long and salty
Contains: sulfites. Fined with a milk proteinV GF DF NF
13
Vouvray Sec
Domaine Huard-Brisset · Loire Valley, France
Quince, beeswax, a firm dry finish
Contains: sulfitesV VG GF DF NF
12
Orange and rosé
Brass Skin-Contact Pinot Gris
Marrow & Finch · North Fork, New York
Dried apricot, orange peel, black tea
Contains: sulfitesV VG GF DF NF
10
Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo
Azienda Collemoro · Abruzzo, Italy
Sour cherry, blood orange, almond
Contains: sulfitesV VG GF DF NF
8
Red
Frappato, served cool
Tenuta Scarlatta · Vittoria, Sicily
Strawberry, white pepper, hardly any tannin
Contains: sulfitesV VG GF DF NF
10
Morgon Côte du Py
Domaine Aubry-Lachaise · Beaujolais, France
Black cherry, violets, crushed rock
Contains: sulfites. Fined with egg whiteV GF DF NF
10
Regulator Cabernet Franc
Marrow & Finch · North Fork, New York
Raspberry, pencil shavings, green pepper
Contains: sulfitesV VG GF DF NF
11
Langhe Nebbiolo
Cascina Tre Lancette · Piedmont, Italy
Rose, tar, sour cherry, firm
Contains: sulfites. Fined with egg whiteV GF DF NF
12
Diecisiete Reserva 2018
Bodegas Valdecierzo · Rioja Alta, Spain
Dried cherry, leather, vanilla
Contains: sulfites. Fined with egg whiteV GF DF NF
15
Sweet and fortified
Fino Sherry
Bodegas La Espiral · Jerez, Spain
Bone dry, almond, green olive, cold
Contains: sulfitesV VG GF DF NF
8
Late Harvest Riesling
Kettle Point Vineyards · Finger Lakes, New York
Apricot, honey, a line of acid
Contains: sulfitesV VG GF DF NF
10
Any bottle in the shop can be opened at your seat for the shelf price plus a flat $12 corkage. That is the whole list: twelve bottles, each one also sold to take home.
| Bottle | On the shelf | At the bar |
|---|---|---|
| Slack Tide Brut NatureMarrow & Finch, 2021 · 750 ml | $42 | $54 |
| Les Rouages Extra BrutChampagne Lemaire-Aubry, NV · 750 ml | $68 | $80 |
| Chablis Vieilles VignesDomaine Tessandier, 2023 · 750 ml | $36 | $48 |
| Shale Dry RieslingKettle Point Vineyards, 2023 · 750 ml | $24 | $36 |
| Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur LieDomaine de la Pendule, 2023 · 750 ml | $19 | $31 |
| Grüner Veltliner LössWeingut Uhrmacher, 2023 · 1 litre | $22 | $34 |
| Brass Skin-Contact Pinot GrisMarrow & Finch, 2023 · 750 ml | $28 | $40 |
| Cerasuolo d'AbruzzoAzienda Collemoro, 2023 · 750 ml | $21 | $33 |
| Regulator Cabernet FrancMarrow & Finch, 2022 · 750 ml | $32 | $44 |
| Morgon Côte du PyDomaine Aubry-Lachaise, 2022 · 750 ml | $29 | $41 |
| Langhe NebbioloCascina Tre Lancette, 2022 · 750 ml | $34 | $46 |
| Diecisiete ReservaBodegas Valdecierzo, 2018 · 750 ml · the last case is kept for the bar | Sold out | $56 |
Half-finished bottles are recorked and sent home with you. Sundays from one until five there is no corkage at all.
Six cocktails, most of them built on wine, sherry or vermouth, and five things to drink when you are not drinking.
Cocktails
The Mainspring
Fino sherry and dry vermouth, stirred, with orange bitters and one green olive. Low in alcohol, high in purpose.
16% abvContains: sulfitesV VG GF DF NF
13
White Port and Tonic
Dry white port over ice, tonic, a strip of lemon peel. Served long, the way Porto drinks it before dinner.
9% abvContains: sulfitesV VG GF DF NF
12
Seventeen Seconds
Gin, red bitter and sweet vermouth in equal parts, stirred for seventeen seconds by the regulator clock. A Negroni with a stopwatch.
24% abvContains: sulfitesV VG GF DF NF
15
Tallow Lane Spritz
Brass orange wine, a bitter orange aperitivo and soda over ice, with a slice of blood orange.
8% abvContains: sulfitesV VG GF DF NF
12
Kir, made properly
A glass of Muscadet with a short measure of blackcurrant liqueur. One part to nine, never pink enough to embarrass anyone.
12% abvContains: sulfites, milk (fining)V GF DF NF
10
Hot Honey Toddy
Rye whiskey, Turnspit hot honey, lemon and hot water in a glass mug. On the list from the first cold night until April.
Autumn and winterContains: honeyV GF DF NF
13
Low and no alcohol
Verjus Spritz
North Fork verjus, the juice of unripe wine grapes, with soda and a sprig of thyme. Tart, dry and grown-up.
0% abvNo common allergensV VG GF DF NF
8
Dry Sparkling Tea
Cold-brewed jasmine and Darjeeling, carbonated and poured in a flute. It behaves like a wine with dinner.
0% abvNo common allergensV VG GF DF NF
9
Quince Shrub and Tonic
Wren's quince vinegar shrub from the October batch, tonic and ice.
0% abvNo common allergensV VG GF DF NF
7
Vermouth and Soda
A half measure of dry white vermouth, a lot of soda, an olive and a lemon wheel.
5% abvContains: sulfitesV VG GF DF NF
8
Dry New York Cider
Still, unfiltered cider from Hudson Valley orchards, poured from the 750 ml bottle by the glass.
6.9% abvContains: sulfitesV VG GF DF NF
9
Cheese is cut to order from the four-foot counter. Everything else is made on the back bar: there is no kitchen, only a toaster oven with ambitions.
Cheese
One piece, cut to order
Any cheese on the counter, with rye crisps and a slice of quince paste.
Contains: milk, wheat, ryeV NF
7
Three, mild to strong
Wren chooses, or you point. Usually First Frost, Comté and Harbor Blue, with crisps, quince and honey.
Contains: milk, wheat, ryeV NF
19
Five, the length of the counter
A piece every nine inches or so, in the order you should eat them, with everything that goes alongside.
Contains: milk, wheat, ryeV NF
29
Snacks
Warm Castelvetrano olives
Warmed in olive oil with orange peel and a bay leaf.
No common allergensV VG GF DF NF
6
Marcona almonds
Fried in olive oil, salted while hot.
Contains: tree nutsV VG GF DF
7
Kettle chips and a glass of Champagne
A bowl of sea salt chips and a glass of Les Rouages. Salt, fat and bubbles: the oldest pairing we know.
Contains: sulfitesV VG GF DF NF
24
Gilda
A green olive, a salted anchovy and a pickled guindilla pepper on a pick. Priced each; order three.
Contains: fishGF DF NF
4
Hearth bread and cultured butter
Marian's loaf, baked this morning at Turnspit on Gristmill Row, with salted butter we culture for a week.
Contains: wheat, milkV NF
6
Sardines from the tin
The tin, opened at the bar, with buttered rye crisps, lemon and flaky salt.
Contains: fish, wheat, rye, milkNF
14
Chicken liver mousse
Made from Turnspit's birds, set under a layer of quince jelly, with rye crisps.
Contains: milk, wheat, ryeNF
12
Harbor Blue, hot honey, pear
A thick slice of the blue with a spoon of Turnspit hot honey and half a ripe pear.
Contains: milkV GF NF
11
Grilled cheese at the bar
Clothbound cheddar and Comté on hearth bread, pressed in butter until it shatters, with cornichons.
Contains: milk, wheatV NF
13
Saucisson sec
Dry-cured pork sausage, sliced thin, with cornichons and mustard.
Contains: mustardGF DF NF
10
Dark chocolate, two squares
Seventy percent, with sea salt. Made in a workshop that also handles hazelnuts.
Contains: may contain tree nutsV VG GF DF
5
Basque cheesecake
Burnt on top, barely set in the middle, served at room temperature with nothing on it.
Contains: milk, eggsV GF NF
9
Tell us about an allergy before you order. Nuts, wheat, milk and fish are all handled on the same small counter.
We call it the winding hour. Someone winds the regulator clock at opening, and for the first stretch of the day one thing is a better deal. It changes with the day of the week.
Tuesday
3 pm to 6 pm
The litre at 7 a glass
Grüner Veltliner Löss from the litre bottle, and warm olives at half price.
Wednesday
3 pm to 6 pm
Two glasses and three cheeses, 30
Any two glasses under 12 and the plate of three, mild to strong.
Thursday
3 pm to 6 pm
Half glasses at half price
Try twice as many. Then from eight until nine, during Vinyl Thursday, every full glass is two dollars less.
Friday
3 pm to 5:30 pm
Gildas at 2, sherry at 6
A cold glass of fino and as many gildas as you can justify before dinner.
Saturday
None
No happy hour
Saturdays are happy enough already. The bar opens at noon.
Sunday
1 pm to 5 pm
No corkage on the shelf
Any bottle in the shop, opened at the bar for the shelf price. Sunday afternoons only.
Monday
Closed
The room is dark
Mondays are for winding the clock and tasting what arrived.
V vegetarianVG veganGF gluten freeDF dairy freeNF nut free